Walk through any market in Nairobi and you will see mitumba everywhere. Secondhand clothes are how millions of Kenyans dress, and the trade supports an estimated 2 million livelihoods.

Mitumba is not the villain of this story. But what happens to the clothes that nobody buys is a question the fashion world can no longer ignore.

At AfroWema, our UHAI Collection is named for the Swahili word for life. This piece is about what it would mean for a garment to give life, not take it.

The numbers behind the pile.

In July 2026, researchers writing in the journal Science called for an end to what they described as "reusable" waste dumping in Africa. Their letter reports that more than 4.5 billion used garments are shipped to the continent every year.

Not all of that cloth finds a buyer. Earlier reporting, citing a 2023 report, puts the textile waste arriving at Nairobi's largest dumpsite at roughly 86 metric tons a day. That is an older estimate, not a new measurement, but it shows the scale of the issue. Researchers have also raised public health concerns, warning that dumped textiles may harbour bacteria such as E. coli and Klebsiella.

The other side of the story.

It matters to be fair here. The Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya says only 1 to 2 percent of imported clothing is unsellable. Traders point out that mitumba gives people affordable clothing and a way to earn a living, and that is true.

The question for brands like ours is what we do differently.

Africa is already answering.

Across the continent, designers are building their own version of sustainable fashion.

This is sustainability on African terms: built on craft, reuse and respect for the maker.

What a garment that
gives life looks like.

We think a piece of clothing gives life when it meets four conditions.

Earth

Draped Asymmetric Dress Set

Cream cotton, hand-dyed to a soft blush at the hem. One of a kind.

$172.92

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Fire

Draped Sleeveless Ombré Vest Set

Floor-length, fading from cream into burnt orange by hand.

$375.53

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Water

Draped Tide Kimono Set

A deep indigo tide-mark, rising and receding the way water does.

$196.15

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Air

Draped Wrap Set

Cream fading to sky blue. Handcrafted by Grace Swalah in Kibera.

$234.87

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The UHAI care promise.

This is the promise we want UHAI to keep.

How to make any
garment last longer.

You do not need UHAI to start. A few habits make a real difference.

• Wash less often, and at lower temperatures.
• Air dry in the shade to protect colour and fibre.
• Fix small damage early, with a tailor or at home.
• Store pieces folded or hung properly so fabric keeps its shape.
• When you are done with a piece, pass it on to a friend, a sister or a trusted reseller.